A Lagosta Perdida

Robert (the host) defines this experience, and he's an energetic and charming guy. He has created a guesthouse experience in the old style, personally hosted with meals cooked and served by him, morning and evening. He has created his own versions of local cuisine, and the meals are served with generosity and zest. The guesthouse name (in translation, The Lost Lobster) comes from Robert's past, when he ran a seafood export business. Like many villages and hamlets in Portugal, Montesinho (current population about 45) had been largely abandoned by families and young people; the establishment of this guesthouse has helped to revive it. Modernity has crept in via wind turbines (actually over the border in Spain) whose fins peep over the ridge a few kilometres above the hamlet. Robert has designed and built spacious and comfortable mid-range accommodation within the historic skeletons of several houses, and there are communal dining and lounging areas at ground level. There is flexibility to accommodate individual and/or group bookings. There was almost a "house party" feel to our stay. Our room wasn't serviced during our stay, but Robert was around to help with information and advice on local activities. There is a lovely garden that looks out to pretty fields behind the property, with outdoor seating and a swimming pool. You can park in the small village square, but we also spied an enormous garage discreetly tucked away at ground level under the houses - another guest put his expensive soft-top car in there. The country around Montesinho gorgeous - quiet, mountainous and green. It is a national park. The hamlet is approached up a windy, narrow road - good for confident drivers. But you can get pretty close on a local bus, and then walk or ask to be collected. It's only 30 minutes' drive to Braganca; 5-10 minutes to the border. We were there for a weekend, and there were a few daytrippers and visitors coming/going. There are limits on construction, which should help keep the historic integrity of the hamlet. And apparently the local community is thinking about reinstating a herd of goats. This would be great base for a week for walks, nature-watching, daytrips and relaxing. I've never stayed anywhere quite like it, and I would certainly recommend.