Name: Myoken Ishiharaso
Address: 4376, Kareigawa, Hayato-cho, Kirishima, Kirishima, Kirishima, 899-5113, Japan
Rating: 9

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Kagoshima Airport

Myoken Ishiharaso

Kirishima

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We decided to add on one night in Kagoshima prior to embarking on our second Yakushima trip. We did this specifically to try out Myoken Ishiharaso - while the ryokan is a relative unknown in foreign circles, the its prominence among Japanese folks as one of the top onsen and culinary ryokans prompted to extend our trip to try it out. We're definitely glad we did!

First, the location - even though it's a mere 15 minutes drive from Kagoshima Airport, we felt like we were a world away; the ryokan is on the outskirts of Kirishima National Park, and is situated along the banks of the pretty and quaint Amori River. It's definitely a place you can easily visit from Tokyo or Osaka given its proximity to the airport, and feel like you're in an off-the-beaten-path destination. On the other hand, it's quite a ways away from Kagoshima City proper... if you want to see the sights (Sakurajima, Sengan-en, etc.) then you definitely should plan for a long day or spend two nights in the area. Note that check-in at Ishiharaso is 2PM, and you'll want to get there not much later than that, if you intend to enjoy everything that the ryokan has to offer.

We stayed in a Suite in the" Ishikura" annex building called "Kirara." It's generously proportioned (85 square meters) and features a separate bedroom/living room/tatami room, and an open-air outdoor Onsen (natural hot springs) bath on the room's balcony. The added benefit of staying in an Ishikura room (and a handful of the top suites in the main building) is the fact that you can elect to have meals in your own room. We chose Kirara due to preferring a more comfortable (to us), Western-style accommodation - Kirara's bedroom has two double beds, and the living room is furnished with real sofas. Please note that in-room meals are served in the Tatami room.

We really enjoyed the variety of Onsens that are available at Ishiharaso. The in-room open-air Onsen was awesome. It's different from many others in that it's full of Iron, and you can really smell it. Not a super pleasant aroma, but it's natural, and it's not overpowering in its aroma. What was impressive is the fact that it's not only is it of the "kakenagashi" (24/7 constant free-flowing) variety, but the volume and force is unlike any other Onsen we've experienced. We could tell that they are close to the source, and there is an abundance of the hot springs water that Ishiharaso taps into.

We also tried out several of the Onsens on the property, and they were all interesting in their own unique way. There is a pretty pathway along the river that leads guests to the main "Daiyokujo" (segregated communal bath) that is large and indoors in a separate building that also contains a lounge/cafe. In addition, there are several outdoor Onsens scattered througout the river banks, including a footbath, a mixed-gender bath, and two private rental baths for couples/families/friends. Ishiharaso rents out bathing suits for women, which is (probably!) needed for the mixed-gender bath open-air, even if no other guests are using it, because you really are exposed to the elements (including - possibly - to people on the opposite side of the river; there is a small road that is visible from the bath, so you can potentially be seen.) We also reserved one of the private rental baths (reservations are in 30 minute blocks) called "Mutsumi No Yu." It was large, atmospheric, secluded (no bathing suits needed) and - again - the powerful force of the hot spring water flowing into the bath was unreal. I definitely recommend that you try out one of the private baths.

Myoken Ishiharaso is consistently rated in the top 5 among ryokans that offer the best dining experience. We've stayed at over 60 of the finest luxury ryokans over the past 5 years, and can say that it definitely lands in our top 10 list. We were graciously served by Clement, a native of Reunion (an island off the Eastern coast of Africa) who is fluent in French, English, Japanese, Spanish and German, and a gentleman that was perfectly suited to also serve local Japanese guests due to his knowledge and local language skills (he also personally translates the menu into English himself.) Ishiharaso is not far from the Ocean and is also next to the Kirishima mountains along with the clean Amori River, so there is no shortage of amazing seasonal vegetables (most are wild and organic), seafood, river fish and the famed Kagoshima Black Beef, Black Pork and Black Chicken. The kitchen staff do an incredible job of taking the ingredients and turning them into magical dishes. The simmered Japanese Turnip with Kagoshima Black Chicken was a definitely highlight, as was the Shabu Shabu hot pot with Kurobuta Black Pork that had a soup broth based on local White Miso. Overall, the food was creative, unique, flavorful and beautifully presented and hosted.

This small, luxury 19-room Onsen retreat is on the short list of ryokans that will likely earn our repeat visit, availability permitting.

Worthy of a repeat visit

What I love most about this onsen hotel or ryokan is the ambience! We have a river-view room and the running river is soothing to both the ears and the eyes. 

We had the basic room, so if you have stayed in a ryokan before, it is exactly what you expect: tatami, futon, modern bathroom, small kitchenette. Our room doesn't have a shower though, but if you plan to use their public onsen, taking a shower there after the bath is no trouble at all. We tried out their foot bath as well located right by the river before breakfast, where you can be completely immersed in the surroundings and it’s such a refreshing experience! 

Their meals are definitely a highlight. It’s traditional kaiseki with fun little twists here and there, so it kept you interested throughout the meal (and for those who have sat through 2-3 hours of kaiseki dinner you will know that it can be quite difficult sometimes). The tofu in soy milk at breakfast was simple but spot on.

We also visited the Makizonocho Falls and Wake Shrine that’s a mere 10-min ride from the ryokan, both sights are interesting to visit and perfect for a mini excursion before dinner. 

It was a pleasant stay and as the first stop of our roadtrip, Ishiharaso totally got us in the mood for the beautiful and magical Kirishima!

Beautiful onsen hotel in magical Kirishima

We spent around US$350 per person for one night in this hotel. However, we found the service and food are both below expectation in terms of value. 
The root of the problem is probably because they don't have enough staff - we were treated by a chinese speaking lady who was very friendly and well-trained. However, there were apparently too many chinese speaking guests and therefore the service is not tailor-made as the lady has to rush through tables. (I stayed in many high-end Ryokan before so probably I was a bit demanding and asking more). In addition, there was no one helping us to carry luggage after the check out, which was quite surprising. 
Anyway, this is still a good hotel but it's just not a great one. And it is overpriced.



Below Expectation

This place is MAGIC.
Nature, silence aytime exept for cicada's singing, excellent service (even if really few persons do speak English:)) and food. 
It's a perfect mixture between tradition, luxury, nature.
The Ryokan is located 40 minutes by train from Kagoshima + 20 min. taxi from Hayato Station.
It's hard to find ANYTHING in the neighborhood, so be sure you've got everything with you.
The taxi can be reserved directly through the Ryokan, along with meals, which I recommend to reserve there (there are no walking distance restaurants. Maybe one but it's hard to finde English speaking people) 
Onsen are something you can't miss. 
You'll find not so many foreigners passing by, most of the guests we met were Japanese.
Strongly recommended if you need deep relax:)



2 days enbraced by nature, tradition & good food

I came across this hotel randomly as I have been a fan of Super Potato's work. The hotel staff recommended us to stay in one of the western rooms and it turned out to be one of the best hotel experience I have ever had! 

The room consists of a living room, dining area that overlooks the river, bedroom with twin beds, kitchen and a semi outdoor onsen. I highly recommend this room for foreign visitors. The meals were prepared using mainly local produce and was beautifully presented and super delicious. Hotel staff are very attentive although communication in English was a bit of a challenge.

Everything was put together perfectly throughout the entire hotel, it's definitely an extraordinary experience for a first timer in Kirishima.

Best onsen hotel experience

I loved the rotenburo (outdoor onsen) by the water stream.   The room inside the main building (honkan) was very clean & tastefully decorated, and the kaiseki meal was exceptionally delicious.   I definitely want to stay there again and highly recommend m-Ishiharaso to everyone.

Myoken Ishiharaso

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